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Africa: Ethiopia


 

The Congo

Map of the Ethiopia

Coffee seedlings distributed free to farmers at a government nursery in the Hararghe region. From my 2008 trip.


Milling dry-process coffee by pounding the heck out of it! Eastern Hararghe region, 2008.

Current Crop Comments:
Ethiopian coffee reminds me more and more of fresh produce, because when you find a really great coffee like the dry-processed Koratie, it is like eating Michigan peaches at the height of the season. The flavors are amazing, and when it is gone, it is gone. If all the factors line up just right, it might be the same next year, maybe not. I traveled to Harar, YirgaCheffe and Sidama regions in February 2009. The fruits of that deepening connection should be reflected in offerings from the next crop, which ought to start arriving mid to late summer '09. The new Ethiopian Coffee Exchange (the new national commodity market) has constipated the flow of coffee out of the country - but coffee is flowing. The wet-processed Bonko is a actually from the tail end of the 2008 crop - but cups incredibly well (see the review below). We had the dry-processed Bonko that was a real favorite here, and this coffee is similarly impressive, but totally different. UPDATE JUN 30: 2009 might be the "Year of No Harar". ... I have finally been cupping some very nice DP coffees from Sidamo and Yirga Cheffe as well as Guji lately, and some from the West. We have some very promising lots "on the water".
Ethiopia is the birthplace of coffee: it is in the forests of the Kaffa region that coffee arabica grew wild. Coffee is "Bun" or "Buna" in Ethiopia, so Coffee Bean is quite possibly a poor anglicized interpretation of "Kaffa Bun". Coffea Arabica was also found in the Harar region quite early, either brought from the Kaffa forests or found closer by. It is entirely possible that slaves taken from the forests chewed coffee berry and spread it into the Harar region, through which the Muslim slave trade route passed.

Ethiopian coffees are available from some regions as dry-processed, from some regions as washed, and from Sidamo as both! The difference between the cup profiles of the natural dry-processed vs. the washed is profound. Washed Sidamo, Yirgacheffe and Limmu have lighter body and less earthy / wild tastes in the cup as their dry-processed kinfolk.

Ethiopian coffees can vary greatly from lot to lot. It takes A LOT of cupping to find the specific lot of coffee that is superior. MAO Horse imports a lot of coffee, but each year one specific "chop" (lot number) out-cups the others. Since lots differ in character, and I do so much to find the best lot, we are now listing the Lot Number in the description of the coffee. When I find that coffee, I buy the majority of the year's coffee immediately, leaving a small opening in case any other good lots come along later in the season. But my experience has been that early shipments of the DP Ethiopians are often the best of the season, in contradiction to many other origins where the earliest are often underdeveloped, lower-grown coffees and the mid-crop pickings are better. Organic supplies have been good, and a few lots have been outstanding. Here's an interesting article outlining the producers hopes for the budding Organic Ethiopian coops.

We have many pictures and notes about Ethiopia coffee in our travelogs, namely a cupping trip to Addis and an interesting trek to Dire Dawa and Harar in the east. Tom also attended the Harar Roundtable Conference, and headed south to Sidama and Yirgacheffe in February 2009. Check out the commentary and photos here.

Coffee Farms:
331,130 peasant farms
19,000 state farm coffee areas
 
Harvest Times:
Washed: August-December
Dry: October to March
Exports all year
Coffee Workers:
about 12 million
Grading,
Processing :

Grade 1= 0-3 defects
Grade 2= 4-12
Most coffee qualifies in these 2 grades, but is exported as grade 4 or 5, presumably for tax reasons (?)

Shade-Grown:
55% light shade
33% medium
17% heavy
Certified Organic:
None certified: all coffee grown organic by tradition
Major Coffee Growing Regions:

Harar,
Sidamo,
Yirgacheffe (in Sidamo),
Limmu,
Djimmah,
Lekempti,
Bebeka

Rank in Production::
2nd in Africa
7th in World
Botanical Cultivars:
Native arabica (arabica coffee is indigenous to Harar)
Introduced:
Coffee grew wild on the Harar plateau before the existence of man, and in Ethiopia that is a long, long, long time ago.

A brief word about the grading of Ethiopian Coffees: The top grade Ethiopian washed coffees (Yirgacheffe and Sidamo, usually) might bear a Grade 2 or 3, dry-processed from the Eastern parts will be 4 or 5 by nature of the preparation method. Oftentimes, a Grade 4 will be marked grade 5 to save on taxes and duties. The whole system is a bit tricky, because you can now have a Grade 1 or 2 natural from Yirga Cheffe, but not from Harar, where the top grade will be Gr. 4 . But we judge coffee by cup quality via blind cupping: not the marks of the bag. Expect uneven roast color from even the best of the dry-processed coffees. Even roast color is not necessarily a mark of high cup quality. NOTE: Some Ethiopian dry-processed coffees are hand prepped and dried in the sun - so watch out for rocks! There can be small stones and dirt clods in the coffee that you need to cull out before roasting and definitely before grinding as these can jam a grinder. A ground up dirt clod can foul an otherwise lovely pot of coffee. (In wet processed coffees the stones fall out in the water channel but in dry processed coffees, small stones can escape detection and make it all the way through to the final bag.) Expect uneven roast colors from dry-processed Ethiopian coffees. In this image of Harar, there is one bean to cull out - pretty obvious.

Our Ethiopian Coffee Offerings: Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below.


 
Ethiopia Mullege Yirga Cheffe
Yirga Cheffe coffees are a renowned wet-processed type with delicate floral and fruit brightness in the cup. As a sub-region of Sidamo, Yirga Cheffe seemed like quite a specific designation several years ago, but times are changing in the coffee world. As small buyers of micro-lots start to travel to coffee origins more, our ability to designate the source of our coffees becomes more specific. And now we have started to find, within the Yirga Cheffe area, special regions with particular cup character. Comically, this lot does not represent that type of coffee; it's an old style pooled Yirga Cheffe by Mullege exports, one that passed through the new Ethiopia Coffee Exchange so that we aren't sure of it's exact origin within the Yirga Cheffe region. However, I thought it was a really nice coffee upon cupping it, not the brightest, most acidic Yirg, but one with balanced character and interesting body. Sadly, there is not much of it so it might be but a blip on our offering sheet. Dry grounds of this lot have a sweet vanilla with a lemon wafer cookie scent. It's quite floral in the wet aroma, rose-like, with mild tropical fruits. The cup impresses me because of it's balanced, buttery sweetness, and moderate acidity. It's not a super-bright Yirga Cheffe, but has a lot of floral and fruit qualities along with a creamy mouthfeel. There are rose-like flowers (like the aromatics), passionfruit and guava, and a refined sweetness. The same "lemon wafer cookie" flavor comes through, a sweet and mild citrus. The finish is slightly nutty. It's not one of those Yirgs that's a citrus explosion, but I appreciate it's quiet appeal. It also does incredibly well as an aromatic component in espresso!



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Ethiopia Mullege Yirga Cheffe
$5.50$10.45$23.93$45.65Limit 10 pounds
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Pruning tests for coffee trees at the government coffee garden in Yirga Cheffe
Country: Ethiopia
Grade: 2
Region: Yirga Cheffe
Mark: Mullege
Processing: Wet Process
Crop: June 2009 Arrival
Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen
Varietal: Heirloom Ethiopia cultivar
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium-Bold intensity / Sweet fruit and flowers, creamy body
Roast: City+ roast. Yirgs roasted too dark are just a crying shame.
Compare to: A balanced wet-processed Ethiopia with refined flavors.
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Ethiopia Wet-Process Bonko
With the current chaos in the new Ethiopia "ECX" system that permits the export from the country, I was wondering when we would see new crop lots in 2009. No doubt they will be greatly delayed. But this funny thing happened ... a friend calls and says they bought this late, late 2008 shipment of wet-process coffee; did I want any? No, is the immediate answer; that's "current crop" and it's nearing the end of it's time, since new crop is coming. (Or is it?) "No, you have to cup this coffee, it's amazing". Okay, I did and it is amazing. Never have I tasted a coffee this late in time that cupped so faultless, so fresh, so squeaky clean. It's lemony, light-bodied, effervescent in it's acidity, with sugar cookie-like sweetness. You remember Bonko, we had the dry-process starting in December '08. (This coffee is totally different from that lot, wet-process, delicate, light-bodied, bright). Bonko is a 300 member private cooperative mill of small farmers, averaging about 1 hectare each. It's in the Sidama region, Dara subdistrict. I was actually a kilometer from here early this year, but we couldn't make it to Bonko before sunset. The DP coffee from earlier this year was great, and while this cup is a polar opposite, both lots confirm the ability of this mill to produce great coffee. The dry fragrance is mouth-watering in its sweetness, citrusy, with a light brown sugar scent. Adding hot water, the wet aromatic is piquant and delicately spiced with a fennel cookie sweetness and lemony bright fruit. The cup has a lemon cookie brightness that dances on the palate. There is that sugary, confectionary sweetness mentioned before, accented with citrus and a touch of spice. The body is clear and light, which suits the high tonal range of the cup well. I recommend light roasts here to compliment the bright cup, and not to overshadow the flavors I mention with a veil of darker roast taste.



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Ethiopia Wet-Process Bonko
$5.40$10.26$23.49$44.82$83.16
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Dara Woreda in Sidama area, looking toward Bonko, from my trip this year.
Country: Ethiopia
Grade: 2
Region: Bonko, Dara Woreda
Mark: Bonko farmer's group, ABO Black Sun
Processing: Wet Process
Crop: April 2009 Arrival, 08 Crop
Appearance: .2 d/300gr, 16-17 ScreenBonko, Dara Woreda, SNNP-Sidamo
Varietal: Local Sidama cultivar
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Mild-Medium intensity / Light body, amazing lemon aromatics, cookie sweetness.
Roast: City to City+ is ideal
Compare to: Top notch wet-process Yirga Cheffe lots. Clean bright coffees like our Ethiopia Kebado Wet-process
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Archived Reviews

To view reviews for out of stock coffees, visit our Ethiopia Coffee Archives.


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