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Africa: Kenya


 
The Congo

On a historical note: coffee was introduced into Kenya by way of Reunion (Bourbon) island at the end of the 19th century. (1893 is sometimes given as the date). It was brought for local cultivation by the Fathers of the Holy Spirit congregation, another case of the long and twisted road that religion and coffee have traveled together!

This map of the Mt Kenya area shows some of the nearby coffee origins (I highlighted the names in yellow).

Patrick from Royal has a very informative write-up on Kenyas (.PDF file format)

Current Crop Comments:
The Main Crop 2008 lots have arrived, and many have already sold out.We had lots from all the major regions; Kiambu, Nyeri, Thika, Meru, Muranga, Ruiru, Kirinyaga. There is always a great Kenya to be found in the main crop arrivals (February through August). I cup around 10-20 every single week! With so much choice, the notion of an "up" year or "down" no longer make sense to me. The auction system gives me such great access to all the lots, even if there was an overall problem due to weather, etc. it would not preclude me from finding great lots. It's just a matter of being consistent, and doing my job at the cupping table! <br/>-Tom

Kenya is the East African powerhouse of the coffee world. Both in the cup, and the way they run their trade, everything is topnotch. The best Kenya coffees are not sold simply as generic AA or AB. They are specific auction lots sold to the highest bidder, and heated competition drives the prices up. Their research and development is unparalleled. Their quality control is meticulous, and many thousands of small farmers are highly educated in their agricultural practice --and rewarded -- for top level coffee.

In general, this is a bright coffee that lights up the palate from front to back. It is not for people who do not like acidity in coffee (acidity being the prized bright notes in the cup due to an interrelated set of chlorogenic acids). A great Kenya is complex, and has interesting fruit (berry, citrus) flavors, sometimes alternating with spice. Some are clean and bright, others have cherished winey flavors.

I am really proud of our consistently excellent selection of Kenyas! It takes a lot of work to sort through the many samples available to find the few that are truly complex, that alternate in the way you sense them to make the coffee more than just your standard, pleasant cup, but a real experience. When we go after an auction lot, 9 out of 10 times we buy the whole thing; it is exclusively ours. While it is possible that the same farm or co-op has more than 1 auction lot (for example, 1 early in the season, and 1 a bit later in the same harvest) I can say with certainty that I cupped them all and bought the better one. It's just a matter of effort and hard work, and when it comes to cupping Kenyas, we put a focused and intensive effort into the auctions during the Main Crop season.

Currently, the excellent Kenya auction system and coffee production in general is suffering myriad problems as is all of East Africa. Kenya, the former model of progress and African Independence is in a disarray. For now, the coffees are still of high quality but if the auction system does not continue to serve and benefit the small farmer co-ops, they will plant other crops instead, or replace the better cultivars (the excellent SL-28 and SL-34 selections) with the disease resistant but poor quality Ruiri 11 strain.

2.21.08 - Out of concern about the unrest in Kenya , we have donated to Doctors Without Borders, a humanitarian organization active in the area. The unrest does not seem to be effecting coffee areas, but it is hard to see a country that had been very stable endure a period like this. - Maria & Tom

Coffee Farms:
573,426 farms grouped into 275 cooperatives,
1,275 plantations
 
Harvest Times:
Main Crop: October-December,
Fly Crop: June-August
Coffee Workers:
6,000,000
Grading,
Processing :

AA (17/18 screen)=highest
M'buni, natural coffee for local consumption=lowest:
Wet-processing

Shade Grown:
Rarely
Certified Organic:
None. Localized use of chemicals is rare, due to excellent agricultural methods: mulching, pruning, mowing etc.
Major Coffee Growing Regions:

High Plateau around Mt. Kenya,
Aberdare Zone,
West: Kasii, Nyanza, Bungoma, East: Nakuru, Kericho

Rank in Production::
6th in Africa
18th in World
Botanical Cultivars:

SL-28, SL-34, Bourbon, Kents, Typica, Riuri 11. Bourbons are sometimes called Scottish Mission and French Mission.

Introduced:
1800's: By the Fathers of the Holy Spirit Congregation: Bourbon in 1911 from Reunion: Kents in 1920 from the Indies.
Colored Kenya Coffee??? Sometimes you will see a bright color on an Auction Lot Kenya coffee seed. Kenya coffees are milled and assigned lot numbers during the auction process, before the winning bidder is known. Then they us chalk and a stencil to mark the bags with the winner's information. So you are seeing a little colored chalk, not ink, that made it through the weave of the bag onto the coffee. Roast 'em or remove 'em - they do not affect the cup, and are not harmful to health in any way. -Tom

Our Kenya Offerings: Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below.


Kenya AA Auction Lot 526 - Tegu
Country: Kenya Grade: AA Main Crop Auction Lot Region: Nyeri District Mark: Nyeri - Tegu Coffee Factory
Processing: Wet-Process Crop: September 2008 Arrival Appearance: .2 d/300gr, 18 screen Varietal: SL-28
Notes:Tegu is a name we know: we have offered occasional lots from the Tegu coffee factory (mill) in the past, AA lots, AB lots, Peaberries. They have the potential to produce great quality but not all Tegu lots are so spectacular. Another great coffee company, Counter Culture, is working with Tegu on a direct basis to improve quality, whereas we are supporting the mill via the auctions. By either method, it takes a process of selection to buy great coffees from a Kenya source: you can't just go by the name. We cupped at least 8 various lots this year from this mill, and bought this one in the Kenya main crop auctions. It is not the most complex Kenya, but the quality of the acidity, the bright liveliness in the cup, made this jump out from the other coffees in the cupping. The fragrance from the dry grounds is very sweet with cane sugar and caramel scents, and a bit of red apple. The wet aroma has warming spices (allspice, pepper, cinnamon) … cinnamon in particular. The cup flavors are dominated by apple and citrus in the bright acidity, which fade gracefully. There are turbinado (raw sugar) flavors in the finish, and apple skins. It's not a complex Kenya, but has outstanding, clean/clear fruited flavors. As it cools, the cup attains more balance, and the body turns from juicy to creamy. There are mild nut roast tones of toasted hazelnut. This is definitely one of the finer lots Tegu has produced through the years, based on my cuppings.
Intensity/Prime Attribute:Bold intensity/ Fruited, juicy, bright cup, medium body
Roast:A City to Full City roast
Compare to: Bright, citrus Nyeri-region Kenyas, sweetly fruited with moderate body.
Kenya AA Auction Lot 526 - Tegu $6.50 add to cart$12.35 add to cart$28.28add to cart$53.95add to cart$100.10add to cart

Kenya AB Auction Lot #786 - Rukira
Country: Kenya Grade: AB Main Crop Auction Lot Region: Nyeri District Mark: Rukira
Processing: Wet-Processed Crop: October 2008 Arrival Appearance: .4 d/300gr, 16-18 screen Varietal: SL-28
Notes:If you leave the town of Nyeri in the district of Nyeri on the slopes of Mount Kenya, and you head south on C70, you will come to Rukira town very shortly, where this lot of coffee was milled. It is our very last lot of Kenya Main Crop auction coffee for the year ... meaning that new arrivals don't come until next April or so. We have cupped coffees in the "Fly Crop" harvest (that's the smaller off-season harvest that sometimes, just sometimes, has a decent lot or two). The results weren't good but there's still a chance when the arrivals roll in around February. Anyway, we bought Kenyas over a wide range of time, and this was from the last part of the harvest that still include the high grown Nyeri region coffees. It has a striking dry fragrance in both lighter (City+ roast) and darker (FC+) levels. It is both floral, with flame grape and slight winey fruit. And it has a black currant character at FC+, as well as more pungent, near-chocolate bittersweetness. The wet aroma has raw honey sweetness, ample fruit smells, and some unusual savory hints. There's nothing savory about the cup flavors though - lighter roasts have a juicy sweetness, fruit preserves, peach, strawberry, honey. Dark toffee flavors come out at FC+, raisin and black currant for fruit, and bittersweet balance in the roast tastes. It's not an overwhelmingly acidic Kenya; it has balance, and is easier to quaff; a good daily-drinker. It is also a very interesting coffee to "melange," meaning to blend a C+ roast and an FC+ roast. This resulted in my favorite cup, a longer finish with pleasant bittering components, but bright fruits and that honey sweetness I mentioned.
Intensity/Prime Attribute:Medium intensity / Honey, fruit preserves, dark fruits (FC+)
Roast:See notes above. City+ has the best bright fruit notes and honey, FC+ has darker fruits and bittersweets. A melange of these two roasts produced my favorite cup.
Compare to: Balanced Kenya cup profile with sweetness, fruit, and not too much acidity.
Kenya AB Auction Lot #786 - Rukira $5.60 add to cart$10.64 add to cart$24.36add to cart$46.48add to cart$86.24add to cart

Kenya Auction Lot 738 -Marua Peaberry
Country: Kenya Grade: PB Main Crop Auction Lot Region: Nyeri District Mark: Nyeri - Marua Coffee Society
Processing: Wet-Process Crop: Dec 2008 Arrival Appearance: .2 d/300gr, 16-18 PB screen Varietal: SL-28
Notes:Marua is another outstanding lot from the highest-altitude Nyeri district. It's from a particular cooperative (called a "society" in Kenya) that we have not offered before. But it really jumped out at the pre-auction cupping, and so we entered in a high bid for it. The dry fragrance is very floral, a bouquet of roses, sweet grain sugars, and some interesting light chocolate roast notes. (Chocolate is not a word I mention much with Kenyas!). The wet aroma has spice, cardamom and a dash of pepper, with a lot of stone fruit sweetness (peach, apricot, and a bit of plum). In the cup, it's those same trio of fruits that speak very clearly in the cup. It's very juicy overall, has a fairly light body, and the finish is citrusy (kumquat). There's a zest in the aftertaste I liken to citrus rind, and a moderate peppery spice there too. It's a very piquant coffee, zippy, lively, bright.
Intensity/Prime Attribute:Bold intensity/ Fruited, juicy, bright cup, light body
Roast:City to Full City roast. Our preference was FC.
Compare to: Bright, complex Nyeri-region profile.
Kenya Auction Lot 738 -Marua Peaberry $5.60 add to cart$10.64 add to cart$24.36add to cart$46.48add to cart$86.24add to cart


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