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Africa: Kenya


 
The Congo

On a historical note: coffee was introduced into Kenya by way of Reunion (Bourbon) island at the end of the 19th century. (1893 is sometimes given as the date). It was brought for local cultivation by the Fathers of the Holy Spirit congregation, another case of the long and twisted road that religion and coffee have traveled together!

This map of the Mt Kenya area shows some of the nearby coffee origins (I highlighted the names in yellow).

Patrick from Royal has a very informative write-up on Kenyas (.PDF file format)

Current Crop Comments:
Our 2009 Kenyas started to arrive in May 2009 and we currently have coffees from Kiambu, Kirinyaga, and Nyeri. Main crop runs February through August and now that many exporters are switching to vacuum packed boxes instead of bags, we ought to be able to keep offering the best of the season deep into the fall. We will keep posting new Kenyas as we sell through the other ones; they are all good, so don't worry if you miss one, there is another one coming. The crop this year is huge, in contrast to nearly everywhere else. I visited Kenya this March, both to a few farms, the Nairobi auction house and the cupping rooms of Dorman's, a big coffee exporter. The entire auction operation is amazingly impressive - over 600 separate lots that are sampled and bid each week! Be sure to look for that travelogue on the Library page.

Kenya is the East African powerhouse of the coffee world. Both in the cup, and the way they run their trade, everything is topnotch. The best Kenya coffees are not sold simply as generic AA or AB. They are specific auction lots sold to the highest bidder, and heated competition drives the prices up. Their research and development is unparalleled. Their quality control is meticulous, and many thousands of small farmers are highly educated in their agricultural practice --and rewarded -- for top level coffee.

In general, this is a bright coffee that lights up the palate from front to back. It is not for people who do not like acidity in coffee (acidity being the prized bright notes in the cup due to an interrelated set of chlorogenic acids). A great Kenya is complex, and has interesting fruit (berry, citrus) flavors, sometimes alternating with spice. Some are clean and bright, others have cherished winey flavors.

I am really proud of our consistently excellent selection of Kenyas! It takes a lot of work to sort through the many samples available to find the few that are truly complex, that alternate in the way you sense them to make the coffee more than just your standard, pleasant cup, but a real experience. When we go after an auction lot, 9 out of 10 times we buy the whole thing; it is exclusively ours. While it is possible that the same farm or co-op has more than 1 auction lot (for example, 1 early in the season, and 1 a bit later in the same harvest) I can say with certainty that I cupped them all and bought the better one. It's just a matter of effort and hard work, and when it comes to cupping Kenyas, we put a focused and intensive effort into the auctions during the Main Crop season.

Currently, the excellent Kenya auction system and coffee production in general is suffering myriad problems as is all of East Africa. Politically, Kenya, the former model of progress and African Independence, is in disarray. For now, the coffees are still of high quality but if the auction system does not continue to serve and benefit the small farmer co-ops, they will plant other crops instead, or replace the better cultivars (the excellent SL-28 and SL-34 selections) with the disease resistant but poor quality Ruiri 11 strain.

3.10.09 - We have a long travel commentary from Tom's recent Kenya trip uploaded, plus a couple hundred new images!

2.21.08 - Out of concern about the unrest in Kenya , we have donated to Doctors Without Borders, a humanitarian organization active in the area. The unrest does not seem to be effecting coffee areas, but it is hard to see a country that had been very stable endure a period like this. - Maria & Tom

Coffee Farms:
573,426 farms grouped into 275 cooperatives,
1,275 plantations
 
Harvest Times:
Main Crop: October-December,
Fly Crop: June-August
Coffee Workers:
6,000,000
Grading,
Processing :

AA (17/18 screen)=highest
M'buni, natural coffee for local consumption=lowest:
Wet-processing

Shade Grown:
Rarely
Certified Organic:
None. Localized use of chemicals is rare, due to excellent agricultural methods: mulching, pruning, mowing etc.
Major Coffee Growing Regions:

High Plateau around Mt. Kenya,
Aberdare Zone,
West: Kasii, Nyanza, Bungoma, East: Nakuru, Kericho

Rank in Production::
6th in Africa
18th in World
Botanical Cultivars:

SL-28, SL-34, Bourbon, Kents, Typica, Riuri 11. Bourbons are sometimes called Scottish Mission and French Mission.

Introduced:
1800's: By the Fathers of the Holy Spirit Congregation: Bourbon in 1911 from Reunion: Kents in 1920 from the Indies.
Colored Kenya Coffee??? Sometimes you will see a bright color on an Auction Lot Kenya coffee seed. Kenya coffees are milled and assigned lot numbers during the auction process, before the winning bidder is known. Then they us chalk and a stencil to mark the bags with the winner's information. So you are seeing a little colored chalk, not ink, that made it through the weave of the bag onto the coffee. Roast 'em or remove 'em - they do not affect the cup, and are not harmful to health in any way. -Tom

Our Kenya Offerings: Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below.


 
Kenya Kiambu Peaberry -Ndumberi Coop
Ndumberi Coffee Farmers Co-op Society is quite close to the capital of Nairobi in the Kiambu growing area, a region dominated by large privately held estates (some owned by agribusiness multinationals). The presence of cooperatives in this landscape is a testament to Kenya’s economic diversity, offering better options to farmers than other producing countries. And I must admit to the charm of any coffee which is phonetically called "Dumb Berry". The coop has three factories (coffee mills): Ndumberi, Ngaita and Riabai, and was formed in 1960, and was inaugurated by the founding father of independent Kenya, Jomo Kenyatta, a source of great pride for the coop. At the time the society had only one factory with 432 members. Today the society has 3 wet mills serving a membership of 2516 whose benefit extends to over 10,000 families. The average number of coffee trees per farmer is about 200; these are true small-holder farmers! This is one of the sweetest lots, with a balanced acidity, and depth as well. The dry fragrance has perfume-like floral qualities, rose-water and white cake. The wet aroma presents a darker palate of smells, with plum pudding, concord grape juice, and sweet milk chocolate being the most recognizable. In the cup there is juicy green grape married to the citric brightness (milder than other lots, which are more acidic overall). The cup is transparent, clean, and walks a delicate balance between bright fruited notes and refined sugar sweetness. There is a hint of rind, pepper, and tannic tightness in the finish, which adds a bracing accent to an overall juicy cup. As I cup this, Ndumberi lot, I keep thinking that it boils down to one essential cause/effect relationship (and this cane be said about these new crop Kenyas in general): this coffee makes me smile! And it is nice to remember my visit to the region a month ago, that the pleasant qualities of this coffee are a direct result of the work of the farmer, the coop, and the coffee mill.



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Kenya Kiambu Peaberry -Ndumberi Coop
$5.90$11.21$25.67$48.97$90.86
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Sign for the Ndumberi Farmer Cooperative Society, Kiambu.
Country: Kenya
Grade: PB Main Crop Auction Lot
Region: Kiambu District
Mark: Ndumberi Farmers Cooperative Society
Processing: Wet Process
Crop: May 2009 Arrival
Appearance: .2 d/300gr, 17+ PB screen
Varietal: SL-28
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium-Bold Intensity / Super sweet aromatics, balance of brightness, sweetness and depth
Roast: We use a City+ roast for Kenya reviews in general, and Ndumberi is no exception. At this level, and with proper rest after roasting, the full range of the cup is experienced
Compare to: This Kiambu lot has balanced sweetness, whereas Nyeri lots can be more tartly acidic. Comparable to Kirinyaga coffees as well.
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Kenya Kirinyaga -Karinga Peaberry
This is the second of two Kirinyaga peaberry lots we are offering this season. This lot is from one of the cooperative coffee societies, Kabare FCS in Kerugoya town, which give smallholder farmers an outlet for their harvest. There are quite a few Estates in the area, and while "Coffee Estate" sounds good, and in the '90s everyone wanted all their coffee to be "Estate" coffee, many in Kenya are owned by multi-nationals. It's good for small-holder locals to have the option of cooperatives, rather than selling cherry to large outfits. Anyway, we buy based on the cup, and this one is really sweet and compelling: The dry fragrance is of interest for some shifty little contradictions: sweet fruit, peach and mango, and then a juniper scent, piney, resinous, interesting! Adding hot water, the wet aroma has the same complexity between sweet fruits, tending toward strawberry, and a lively accent of spice at FC roast. The City+ roast clearly has the brighter fruited dimension, and the FC to FC+ is showing the more resinous side, juniper, spice. It's an interesting shift in flavors dependent on roast level. I get sweet orange marmalade as the cup cools and more jammy strawberry. Amazing how much better the Peaberry is from the AA (which we did not buy). Also, this lot was shipped with our special bags lining the inside of the traditional jute bag, and the green coffee has an amazingly fresh, vibrant smell. Overall, I like the rounded balance of this cup, with nice silky smooth body, and moderate fruit tones without the bright citrus notes that (while the mark of some excellent Kenyas) can be hard to drink on a daily basis. I think the lighter roast is superior, City to City+, with caramel sweetness and no grainy notes of light roast. But I did enjoy the slight pungency and spice of FC/FC+ as well.



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Kenya Kirinyaga -Karinga Peaberry
$5.50$10.45$23.93$45.65$84.70
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Coffee trees with ripening fruit, Kirinyaga district.
Country: Kenya
Grade: Peaberry Main Crop Auction Lot
Region: Kerugoya, Kirinyaga District
Mark: Karinga Coffee Society
Processing: Wet Process
Crop: Late June 2009 Arrival
Appearance: .2 d/300gr, 17+ screen PB screen
Varietal: SL-28
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium-Bold intensity / Split Personality, but so versatile too.
Roast: See notes above. City to City+ was the best cup for me.
Compare to: Rounded balance in the cup from this Kenya, without the citrus brightness of some lots.
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Kenya Kirinyaga AA -Gakuyu-ini Factory
Gakuyu-ini is a "factory," a coffee mill in Kenya terminology, from the Kirinyaga growing district. It is a cooperative coffee, the sole coffee group of the Thirikwa Farmers Cooperative Society. While we like estate coffees, oftentimes the qualities from cooperatives is superior. In a coop, each member is tending to only 200-500 trees on less than a hectare, as opposed to a huge estate that uses agribusiness growing methods. I think it shows in the cup. The dry fragrance is has a ruby red grapefruit scent, moderated by vanilla wafer cookie sweetness. Adding hot water, the wet aromatics remind me of fresh baked sweet bread, but also have a pronounced floral quality, a lemon-rose potpourri. The cup has delicate balance of the sweet and the sour sensations, with a lively, fresh lemonade brightness. The mouthfeel is silky, with medium density. In the next cupping session we had a distinct grape candy flavor from this Gakuyu-ini, almost like a Jolly Rancher. This is a balanced and sweet lot. There is a hint of winey, ripe character to the fruit. When the cup is completely cool, there is a flavor of sweetened pink grapefruit ... very nice! Overall, it's one of the sweetest, most delicate Kenyas we have had. We have sold out of the peaberry Gakuyu-Ini which was more acidic and higher in tonal range, but I think the AA might be a better day-to-day drinking coffee. And if you can roll with bright espresso, it makes an amazing SO shot!



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Kenya Kirinyaga AA -Gakuyu-ini Factory
$5.80$11.02$25.23$48.14$89.32
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SL-28 cultivar trees in Kirinyaga region, Kenya
Country: Kenya
Grade: AA Main Crop Auction Lot
Region: Kirinyaga District
Mark: Gakuyu-ini Factory, Thirikwa FCS
Processing: Wet Process
Crop: May 2009 Arrival
Appearance: .2 d/300gr, 17+ PB screen
Varietal: SL-28
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium intensity / Sweet and balanced brightness, fresh lemonade, pink grapefruit.
Roast: City to Full City roast
Compare to: Balanced brightness and sweetness, a delicate, refined Kenya.
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Archived Reviews

To view reviews for out of stock coffees, visit our Kenya Coffee Archives.


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