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Can a coffee be too perfect, too balanced, so all you can say about it is ," Hmm ... it has coffee flavor."' That's the criticism that used to be leveled at the coffees from Costa Rica - too balanced, too clean, too mild. We categorize this type of coffee as the "classic cup," the traditional balanced coffee that has no defects or taints. Coffee cuppers call it "clean" and it's not the same thing as "boring." Yet many Costa Ricas from the large farms and mills are exactly that; middle-of-the-road arabicas. But there's can be more to a Costa Rican coffee than neutrality. They are prized for their high notes: bright citrus or berry-like flavors in the acidity, with distinct nut-to-chocolate roasty flavors. Now, everything is changing in Costa Rica, and the orthodoxy, big farms and big powerful cooperative mills, have a reason to do a double-take. There is a new quality initiative coming from the Micro-Mills, tiny low-volume farm-specific coffee producers who now keep their lots separate, mill it themselves, gaining total control of the process, and tuning it to yield the best possible flavors (and the best price!) The revolution is possible due to new environmentally friendly small milling equipment, and the disatisfaction of small producers who sell coffee at market prices, only to see it blended with average, carelessly harvested lots. With an independent Micro-Mill, a farmer can become a true "coffee craftsperson," maximize the cup quality of their coffee, dividing lots by elevation or cutivar, and receiving the highest prices for their Micro-Lot coffees. In turn, we get unique and diverse Micro-Lots, and a transparent, long-term relationship with the small farmer. Some call it Direct Trade, but we call it our Farm Gate coffee, where we can be assured of exactly what the farmer received. And in these cases they yield 40%-100%+ more than Fair Trade prices. The range of flavors that result from Costa Rican coffees has expanded without limit due to the new relationships we are forming, ranging from traditional wet-processed lots with vivid brightness, floral and clean fruit notes, to ... well, radically different dry-processed coffees in the style of Ethiopia Harar. And there is everything inbetween too, so please read our descriptions and enjoy the new diversity of flavors. It's a moment to rejoice: farmers paid well, their coffee elevated from obscurity in "pooled lots" and mill marks, the satisfaction we get from offering so many unique flavor profiles, and for the home roaster, stepping that much closer to the source, to a small farmer tuning their Penagos depulper just like you tune your home roast machine, both seeking to reveal the possibilites locked in the green coffee bean! -Tom
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| Costa Rica Guillio Francesca - Finca Guadelupe | |||||||
| Country: | Costa Rica | Grade: | SHB | Region: | Zarcero, West Valley | Mark: | Guillio Francesca Ferraro "Guadelupe" |
| Processing: | Wet-Process | Crop: | Late June 2008 Arrival | Appearance: | .2 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen | Varietal: | Caturra |
| Notes:Gillio Francesca Ferraro is a character. He has aristocratic airs, and a bit of impatience that goes with his advanced years. While he isn't the youngest among the Costa Rica small farmers who have embrace the Micro-Mill movement, he certainly keeps pace with them (he was the elder statesman on their whirlwind tour of coffee roasteries this past August). And his coffees are top notch as well, Caturra cultivar planted at 1800 meters in the West Valley area of Zarcero. They have classic Costa Rica character, with nut-to-chocolate roast taste and laced with ripe, clean fruited notes. This coffee really stood out for me at a cupping we did in San Jose, Costa Rica last March. I found really sweet aromatics, balanced and very attractive. Keeping the roast around City+, the almondy nut aromatic was perfectly matched in the cup, while Full City to Full City+ lent itself to great milk chocolate flavors. These finish with a tangy and dry bittersweet, but in between there is an intermittent fruited quality, clean and sweeter than the roast flavors. It strikes me as a blend of red apple, pear and the tannic quality of grape. In the finish, the lighter roast has the pleasant drying effect of almond skins. To call this a "balanced, classic" Central America cup belies the fact it really has such a distinct and attractive flavor profile. It's a shame to lump it under such a broad rubric, and perhaps it's just my lack of imagination, because this cup is great "daily drinking" coffee, as well as one I would quickly share with friends and relatives. |
![]() Guillio at a cupping event here at Sweet Maria's. |
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| Intensity/Prime Attribute:Mild-Medium intensity / Classic CR nut-chocolate roast taste | |||||||
| Roast:City+ for the nutty version, FC+ for milk chocolate. | |||||||
| Compare to: A great drinking coffee, classic and clean Central cup character with nice, ripe fruit note as well. This coffee is part of our direct trade Farm Gate pricing transparency program. | |||||||
| Costa Rica Guillio Francesca - Finca Guadelupe (farm gate) | $5.80
| $11.02
| $25.23 | $48.14 | $89.32 |
| Costa Rica La Candelilla Tarrazu "Miel" | |||||||
| Country: | Costa Rica | Grade: | SHB | Region: | Guadalupe de San Marcos | Mark: | Victor Manuel Mata, La Candelilla Estate |
| Processing: | Miel (Pulp Natural) | Crop: | Aug 2008 Arrival | Appearance: | .2 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen | Varietal: | Mundo Novo, Bourbon |
| Notes:La Candelilla is one of the larger farms in the "Micro-Mill" category, but like the others it is a true coffee estate, with complete control of the coffee from the plant, through the processing and preparation for export. It is operated by Victor Mata, and this coffee comes from a high spot called La Guaca (1500 meters). They have a very impressive mill, and a lot of new plantings in various cultivars, such as Gesha. (As you can imagine, half of Latin America looks like it is being replanted in Gesha). But what we have here is a classic cup. It's a little unclear whether this is Mundo Novo, a Bourbon hybrid, or old Bourbon itself. In either case, a lot of the character in this cup, the more moderate acidity, increased body, rich chocolate roast flavor and fruit, is not a result of cultivar; it's because this is a "Miel" coffee, a pulp natural process. The dry fragrance is sweet, and as the name suggests, very honey-like. It has considerable sweet fruit to it, raisin and dried plum. Add hot water and a soft milk-chocolate emerges, laced with the raisin mentioned previously. I focused on the slightly darker Full City roast that I preferred, because the cup flavors had such an attractive, tangy chocolate character. There are dark, dried fruits behind the chocolate notes, Monukka raisin, prune, dried hibiscus. The finish is interesting; brief, bittersweet, austere, and with a caramelized sugar after-effect. |
![]() Ricardo at the Candelilla bodega. |
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| Intensity/Prime Attribute:Mild-Medium intensity / Incredibly clean, bright, citric and floral | |||||||
| Roast:City+ for the bright, intense cup I describe. But this coffee makes an outstanding FC+ roast too. It's an especially roast-sensitive coffee so expect to see flavor shifts with each batch. | |||||||
| Compare to: Classic bright Central American coffee with excellent structure. It's an easy coffee to "drink" rather than "taste". Slow down and pay attention to it's subtle charm! Note - this is great as a vacuum brewed coffee! This coffee is part of our direct trade Farm Gate pricing transparency program. | |||||||
| Costa Rica La Candelilla Tarrazu "Miel" (farm gate) | $6.10
| $11.59
| $26.54 | $50.63 | $93.94 |
| Costa Rica Tarrazu -Montes de Oro | |||||||
| Country: | Costa Rica | Grade: | SHB | Region: | San Pablo de León Cortés, Tarrazu | Mark: | Emilio Gamboa, Montes de Oro |
| Processing: | Miel (Pulp Natural) | Crop: | July 2008 Arrival | Appearance: | .2 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen | Varietal: | 100% Caturra |
| Notes:Carrizal is the name of the finca (farm) and Montes de Oro is the name of the Micro Mill that has produced this great lot. It's the work of Emilio Gamboa and his family,and a they have a beautiful farm in the Tarrazu region, overlooking San Pablo de León Cortés. The altitude is 1650 -1700 meters and they have an incredibly clean, well-organized Micro Mill, with a majority of the coffee dried on raised beds, the rest on patio. As you may already know, "Miel" means honey, and refers to the fact that much of the fruit from the coffee cherry is left on the parchment (pergamino) seed to dry. This creates a coffee with heightened body, lower acidity, chocolate and fruited hints. The sweetest roasts in the dry fragrance evaluation was the very light City roast, just at the conclusion of 1st crack. It was very caramelly and honey-like. The coffee turns to chocolate as it passes to C+ and FC roast levels, but retains a milky sweetness too. The coffee opens up and reveals multifaceted fruits in the wet aroma, especially at the lightest (C) and darkest (FC+) roasts we tested. The range is from peach, tamarind and guayaba/guava ... and in the darker roast plum, prune and berry. These aromatics are to be expected in the best coffees that undergo the "Miel" type process. (I have tasted a lot of mediocre Miel coffees in the past 2 years, so I do not take these qualities for granted - you can ruin a coffee with this method, and it takes an experienced farmer and miller to get the sweetness out of this cup while retaining a clean character overall). What strikes me with Emilio's coffee is the fact it works at all roast levels, a versatile coffee that can be "interpreted" by the person roasting it in several ways. The light roast has a honey graham cracker character, accented by lemon with a touch of rind in the finish. There is a grainy taste and mouthfeel that disappears with a little more roast, City+, where caramel and apple flavors are dominant, with Toblerone toffee-chocolate flavors. At Full City and Full City+ spice accents give dimension to the more bittersweet chocolate roast taste, with the fruited secondary flavors I mentioned earlier. I really like this cup at FC+, a few snaps into 2nd crack. It reminds one of both classic Costa Rica character, balanced, but with the body lacking in wet-process coffees, and with that thick chocolaty body. It falls into the category of "great drinking coffee", something you want to brew up all the time, and share with others. |
![]() Emilio at his Micro Mill from my trip last year |
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| Intensity/Prime Attribute:Medium intensity / Great sweetness and body, versatile coffee | |||||||
| Roast:See the notes above. It works on a very wide range of roasts, City roast - just through 1st crack to FC+ and beyond. But it produces very different cup character at each level, always with sweetness. FC+ ended up seducing me ... | |||||||
| Compare to: Again, great drinking coffee, meaning something you will brew up morning, noon and night - classic character with increased body and sweetness. This coffee is part of our direct trade Farm Gate pricing transparency program. | |||||||
| Costa Rica Tarrazu -Montes de Oro (farm gate) | $6.15
| $11.69
| $26.75 | $51.05 | $94.71 |
Tom's Sample Cupping Log | Moisture Content Readings This page is authored
by Thompson Owen and Sweet Maria's Coffee, Inc. and is not to be
copied or reproduced without permission
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