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Central America: Costa Rica


Map of Costa Rica


Harvesting at La Candelilla, Tarrazu

Current Crop Comments:
For me, the main issue with Costa Rica had been the model of coffee production, big mills creating brands, not small farms with their own tree-to-bag processing. Since we are small and can handle small lots in a way that is not economical for a larger coffee company, we changed the way we sourced Costa Rican coffees in 2008 and had some spectacular micro-lot offerings. The range of flavors we were getting as a result was huge, from naturals and miel type coffees, to bright crisp Tarrazus and Naranjos, to single-cultivar special lots. I visited the Naranjo, Tarrazu and Dota regions in March and early May 2009 to find new micro-mill lots, and I believe the results will be some very interesting new small-lot coffee offerings this year. The first of our 2009 crop Costas have arrived - the Costa Rica Lourdes de Naranjo Herbazu. Look for more arrivals by mid-June.

Can a coffee be too perfect, too balanced, so all you can say about it is ," Hmm ... it has coffee flavor."' That's the criticism that used to be leveled at the coffees from Costa Rica - too balanced, too clean, too mild. We categorize this type of coffee as the "classic cup," the traditional balanced coffee that has no defects or taints. Coffee cuppers call it "clean" and it's not the same thing as "boring." Yet many Costa Ricas from the large farms and mills are exactly that; middle-of-the-road arabicas. But there's can be more to a Costa Rican coffee than neutrality. They are prized for their high notes: bright citrus or berry-like flavors in the acidity, with distinct nut-to-chocolate roasty flavors.

Now, everything is changing in Costa Rica, and the orthodoxy, big farms and big powerful cooperative mills, have a reason to do a double-take. There is a new quality initiative coming from the Micro-Mills, tiny low-volume farm-specific coffee producers who now keep their lots separate, mill it themselves, gaining total control of the process, and tuning it to yield the best possible flavors (and the best price!) The revolution is possible due to new environmentally friendly small milling equipment, and the disatisfaction of small producers who sell coffee at market prices, only to see it blended with average, carelessly harvested lots. With an independent Micro-Mill, a farmer can become a true "coffee craftsperson," maximize the cup quality of their coffee, dividing lots by elevation or cutivar, and receiving the highest prices for their Micro-Lot coffees. In turn, we get unique and diverse Micro-Lots, and a transparent, long-term relationship with the small farmer. Some call it Direct Trade, but we call it our Farm Gate coffee, where we can be assured of exactly what the farmer received. And in these cases they yield 40%-100%+ more than Fair Trade prices.

The range of flavors that result from Costa Rican coffees has expanded without limit due to the new relationships we are forming, ranging from traditional wet-processed lots with vivid brightness, floral and clean fruit notes, to ... well, radically different dry-processed coffees in the style of Ethiopia Harar. And there is everything inbetween too, so please read our descriptions and enjoy the new diversity of flavors. It's a moment to rejoice: farmers paid well, their coffee elevated from obscurity in "pooled lots" and mill marks, the satisfaction we get from offering so many unique flavor profiles, and for the home roaster, stepping that much closer to the source, to a small farmer tuning their Penagos depulper just like you tune your home roast machine, both seeking to reveal the possibilites locked in the green coffee bean! -Tom


Tarrazu Valley at Sunset, Costa Rica


Our Costa Rican Offerings: Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below


 
Costa Rica "Cafe Sin Limites"
"We're No. 2!" It could be the chant around the farm and bodega at Cafe Sin Limites farm, because they have placed #2 in the Cup of Excellence for 2 years running! And the name sorta lends itself to motivational chants: Coffee Without Limits? What's with that? Jaime Cardenas and his wife Mabel Barrantes are the owners of this small boutique micro mill in the Lourdes de Naranjo region of the West Valley. The farm is at 1500-1700 meters and has produced some amazing coffees in the last 3 years, as the CoE track record proves. (This year's lot was #2 Fuego, Fire, which I guess is another 'new age' sort of naming scheme). Their coffee is, like the neighboring farm Herbazu, Villa Sarchi cultivar, which is a natural mutation of Bourbon. Certainly, this is true micromill/microlot coffee from a passionate small producer. In fact, the first time I dropped in on his small bodega, Jaime was sleeping in the warehouse with the coffee! There was a bed and small TV set with a "telenovella" blaring at full volume. He is a real crafts-person when it comes to his coffee and tries numerous experiments with depulping and drying the coffee to maximize the cup results. This lot is a "miel" or "honey" coffee, meaning that some of the fruit is allowed to dry on the parchment layer on the patio. The dry fragrance from this batch of Sin Limites has tons of cocoa powder, nutty tones (at C+ roast), and maple sweet hints. There is a shift in the wet aroma, a more focused and volatile aromatic emerges, of almond oil essence, aromatic wood, cherry fruits, rustic honey sweetness. It's definitely a bright cup with some dimension, and a bit of funky rustic notes (not unlike the farmer that produces it!) The first thing that strikes you in the cup flavors is the complex brightness; fruited acidity, apple and cherry brightness, and an interesting smokey accent. It's not one of those thin, light-bodied, "bright-clean-simple" CR coffees; it has a fat, round mouthfeel, which pairs well with the almond nutty hint in the roast taste. I also think it's a cup that needs to cool a bit to appreciate the layers of taste. Honey notes, buttered toast, and lemon balm herbal suggestions come out as the cup cools down.

This coffee is part of our direct trade Farm Gate pricing transparency program.

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Costa Rica "Cafe Sin Limites"
$6.60$12.54$28.71$54.78$101.64
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Jaime pulling samples for me the last time I visited his crazy, mixed-up warehouse in Lourdes de Naranjo.
Country: Costa Rica
Grade: SHB
Region: Lourdes de Naranjo, West Valley
Mark: Cafe Sin Limites
Processing: Miel (Pulp Natural)
Crop: June 2009 Arrival
Appearance: .0 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen
Varietal: Villa Sarchi
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium-Bold intensity / Bright acidity, slightly rustic and complex cup
Roast: City to Full City. It can take a wide range of roasts
Compare to: Complex cup for a Costa Rica, with more body than expected. Bright, and a bit rustic.
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Costa Rica La Candelilla Guaca Bourbon
La Candelilla is one of the larger farms in the "Micro-Mill" category, but like the others it is a true coffee estate, with complete control of the coffee from the plant, through the processing and preparation for export. It is operated by Victor Mata, and this coffee comes from a high spot called La Guaca (1500-1550 meters). The farm is in the La Sabana micro-region, at the south bank of the Pirris River, approximately 2 km west from San Marcos de Tarrazú town. They have a very impressive mill, and a lot of new plantings in various cultivars, such as Gesha. (As you can imagine, half of Latin America looks like it is being replanted in Gesha). But what we have here is a classic cup. It's a blend of the Bourbon-hybrid Mundo Novo and old Bourbon, and I am not sure of the exact percentage of each. In either case, a lot of the character in this cup. It works well under a wide range of roasts, and we tested very light City through FC+ levels with nice results. The wet fragrance has a classic Central American brightness, milk chocolate, and a restrained character overall. The light roasts have a distinct toasted almond flavor, and a substantial, silky mouthfeel. There is also a clean red apple fruit, and interesting zesty spice; pepper and a bit of clove. I prefer a little darker roast here, a Full City, near to the start of 2nd crack... but safely before the first snap of of 2nd crack begins. Here the coffee has a generous milk chocolate bittersweetness, great thick body, and dark fruited tones lurking in the background. There are raisiny notes, and as it cools some very nice honey sweet flavors fading into the aftertaste. It's a classic cup, not an exotic fruit bomb, but with a lot of lattitude in the roast to produce really nice results all along the roast spectrum.

This coffee is part of our direct trade Farm Gate pricing transparency program.

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Costa Rica La Candelilla Guaca Bourbon
$6.25$11.88$27.19$51.88$96.25
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Ricardo at the Candelilla bodega, from my trip last year.
Country: Costa Rica
Grade: SHB
Region: Guadalupe de San Marcos
Mark: Victor Manuel Mata, La Candelilla Estate
Processing: Miel (Pulp Natural)
Crop: Aug 2008 Arrival
Appearance: .2 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen
Varietal: Mundo Novo, Bourbon and Mundo Novo
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Mild-Medium intensity / Clean, bright, classic restrained flavor profile
Roast: City+ for the lighter, lower-intensity cup, or FC+ roast too. It takes a wide range of roasts.
Compare to: Classic bright Central American coffee with excellent structure. It's an easy coffee to "drink" rather than "taste". Slow down and pay attention to it's subtle charm! Note - this is great as a vacuum brewed coffee!
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Costa Rica Lourdes de Naranjo Herbazu
Cafetalera Herbazu is a well-known farm in the West Valley region, the Lourdes de Naranjo area to be exact. It is on of the early pioneers in independent, small mill coffee farms, the work of the Barrantes family. They grow a type of Villa Sarchi cultivar that they have used for so long, it has become their own mutation in a way. It's quite a short plant (Villa Sarchi is a dwarf mutation of Bourbon, as is Caturra). The mill and drying patios are right in the center of the farm, which ranges from 1550 to 1700 meters. I have been there a couple times and have always been impressed with how efficient and neat the mill looks, as well as the trees which are kept well-pruned and short. They don't employ much shade on the farm, and their particular type of Villa Sarchi seems adapted to this exposure. While we have offered the pulp natural "honey" coffees from Herbazu, this is our first time offering their wet-process style estate grade, which is a forced demucilage process (as opposed to traditional fermentation wet-process). The results are amazing, a classic, citric Costa Rica flavor profile, vividly bright, crisp and clean. The fragrance of the dry coffee grounds is full of honey, toffee sweetness, and citrus blossom accents. The wet aroma has dynamic orange and Meyer lemon notes, with a graham cracker scent as well, malty and honeyed. The cup is dynamically bright, with a fresh-squeezed lemon juice adding a high-note zing to the cup, while there is a tenor-level flavor of honey, caramel and barley sugar. I like the City+ roast level, but it might be too bright for some folks. In the slightly darker roasts levels (FC, FC+) a berry note emerges, so adding a bit more roast time to tone down the coffee a bit is always an option. It also balances out with more rest (48+ hours) and the body improves. This is an amazing cup, with a sour-and-sweet polarity that makes it a very exiting tasting experience. I find it is very versatile, and works anywhere from City roast, through the middle ranges, and into 2nd crack, if you are so inclined. News Item: Herbazu won 4th place in the 2009 Cup of Excellence!

This coffee is part of our direct trade Farm Gate pricing transparency program.

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Costa Rica Lourdes de Naranjo Herbazu
$5.90$11.21$25.67$48.97$90.86
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The Barrantes brothers at the entrance to Herbazu farm.
Country: Costa Rica
Grade: SHB
Region: Lourdes de Naranjo, West Valley
Mark: Cafetalera Herbazu
Processing: Wet Process (forced demucilage)
Crop: June 2009 Arrival
Appearance: .2 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen
Varietal: Villa Sarchi
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium intensity / Vividly bright acidity, caramel-toffee-honey sweetness, clean cup.
Roast: City to Full City+ or a bit beyond. This is versatile coffee that can hold up to darker roast levels, but I love the fresh lemon juice flavors of C+ as well as the berry notes that emerge at FC/FC+
Compare to: Powerfully bright coffee, Kenya-like in it's acidity.
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Costa Rica Organic La Yunta Estate
La Yunta is a small 10 Hectare family farm in the West Valley area of Costa Rica ...more specifically, San Isidro de San Ramón. It has been in the family for 70 years, from the time that Beto Varela traded a "Yunta", which means a yoke, but also a pair of oxen, for the land the farm now occupies: And so naming the farm was easy: La Yunta! The farm is now owned by the second generation of the Varela Brothers (Pancho and Gemelo) and is certified Organic, a rarity in Costa Rica in and of itself. The farm doesn't have the towering altitude of some others we buy from (1200-1300 meters), but you wouldn't know that from the cup. This is a bright, citrusy cup, but also well-balanced. The fact it is 100% Caturra cultivar might have something to do with it. The seeds are small, and roast like a very dense, high grown coffee with little cracking at the ends, a tight crease in the middle (the "closed fist"), and not a lot of expansion in size. This is one of the few Micro Mill coffees that I did not get a chance to visit, but hopefully we can get there before next year's crop. For me, the coffee spoke for itself when I cupped it. The dry fragrance of the City+ roast is so sweet, laced with cherry blossom. The wet aromatics, smelling the wet grounds after adding hot water, and "breaking" the grounds with a cupping spoon, are even more sweet (with a savory accent) and floral. There are ample citrus hints but this floral character pervades. It's a bright, bright cup, very lively, effervescent. As the cup cools, there is a honey-sweetned tea note that comes forward. It has a refined sweetness, clean fruited notes (the body and flavor remind me of the syrup from canned peaches). The aftertaste has a pristine, crisp, fade-out, with an interesting aromatic cedar note coming forward on the palate at the end. It's a very clean cup, delicate, but still has a lot of character.

This coffee is part of our direct trade Farm Gate pricing transparency program.

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Costa Rica Organic La Yunta Estate
$6.80$12.92$29.58$56.44$104.72
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Gamelo Varela with his father, Beto, and at the micro-mill processing coffee cherry.
Country: Costa Rica
Grade: SHB
Region: San Isidro de San Ramon, West Valley
Mark: La Yunta, NOP Certified Organic,
Processing: Wet process, sun-dried
Crop: June 2009 Arrival
Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen
Varietal: 100% Caturra
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Mild-Medium intensity / Incredibly clean, bright, citric and floral
Roast: City+ for the bright, intense cup I describe. But this coffee makes an outstanding FC+ roast too. It's an especially roast-sensitive coffee so expect to see flavor shifts with each batch.
Compare to: Classic bright Central American coffee with excellent structure. It's an easy coffee to "drink" rather than "taste". Slow down and pay attention to it's subtle charm! Note - this is great as a vacuum brewed coffee!
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Archived Reviews

To view reviews for out of stock coffees, visit our Costa Rica Coffee Archives.

Central America: Costa Rica | Guatemala | Honduras | Mexico | Nicaragua | Panama | El Salvador
South America: Bolivia | Brazil | Colombia | Ecuador | Peru
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Islands/Blends/Others: Australia | Hawaii | Puerto Rico | Jamaica | Dominican | Chicory | Sweet Maria's Blends
Decafs: Water Process, Natural Decafs, MC Decafs, C0-2 Decafs Robustas: India Archives: 2008-2009 | 2007
2005-2006 | 2004 -2003 | 2001-2002 | Pre-2000
Tom's Sample Cupping Log | Moisture Content Readings

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