The renowned farm Hacienda Esmeralda in Panama held an auction for separated lots of their Esmeralda Especial Gesha coffee again this year. This was a mixed blessing: on the one hand this careful separation of Gesha lots by location or plot on the farm, and by harvest date, meant that we could compare and choose based on cup quality. Indeed we found there was a huge range in qualities among the different elevations. On the down side, the competition would drive the best lots to extreme prices: we are lucky that our favorite lots on the cupping table were not the "reserve" coffee that sold for $117 per pound! We thought the Caballeriza lot (as well as the Mario Carnival, which we did not bid on) were the best in the auction. No, it didn't go cheap, but it was less than the $125/Lb coffee from last year. I felt, overall, that last year's coffee was of a higher caliber. It was a small crop for most producers in Panama this year, and the limited amount in the Esmeralda auction might have driven prices more than anything. I felt that the cup we rated above 97 last year outcupped the new coffees even after it was stored 10 months or more. But this Caballeriza lot from 1500 meters in the Jaramillo area of Boquete really rated high next to the older coffees. Gesha (often spelled, wishfully, as Geisha, but this is not correct) is a cultivar with strong Ethiopian roots. It's rare that a coffee varietal announces itself so clearly in the cup flavors as the Gesha cultivar does in Panamanian coffee. It's extremely floral in the aromatics, with loads of tropical fruit. It is light bodied and delicate on one hand, yet extremely flavorful and long-lasting on the palate. There is no other coffee quite like it. And other farms that have cultivated Gesha don't attain the cup quality of the best Esmeralda Gesha. We have bought this coffee in auction, and farm direct for years. I was at the Best of Panama competition this year and Esmeralda Gesha won it, again; the Esmeralda Gesha makes blind cupping almost senseless, since I can identify its amazing fragrance, aroma and cup flavors immediately when I come upon it in a "blind" cupping! It is that dry fragrance that lets you know right away what is coming when the water hits the cup: this lot has sweet jasmine-like floral scents, and raspberry-strawberry fruit sweetness. The wet aroma has floral-herbal shampoo character, a hint of apricot and almond essence. The cup has jasmine and bergamot (the citrusy note from Earl Grey tea). There are layers of fruit below the citrus, red currant, dried strawberries, a touch of blueberry flavor as it cools, and just a dash of anise seed. The body is light, but silky in character. It's a delicate coffee, but so vividly sweet and flavorful!

This coffee is part of our direct trade Farm Gate pricing transparency program.

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The Volcan area is on the opposite side of Volcan Baru from the well-known town of Boquete, all in the state of Chirqui, western Panama. This coffee is a selection of small-farm lots from the higher altitudes of the Paso Ancho area, between the town of Volcan and Bambito, on the way to Cerro Punto. Most of these are farms too small to do lot separations, but they all come from the same basic terroir and are planted in Caturra and Bourbon (with some Catuai). And they are all located between 1750 and 1900 meters, very high altitude! The result is a bright, crisp cup that has the density to take on a wide range of roasts. The dry fragrance has ample sweetness, suggestions of caramel apple, and spice. The wet aroma is fruited and spicy; passionfruit, peach preserves, cinnamon stick. The cup has a crystal-clear brightness, a crisp acidity, effervescent and lively. There are floral flavors, honeysuckle blossom, candied apricot, a clean and refined sweetness. All through the roast range from City to Full City+ the coffee maintains its clarity, even as mildy bittersweet chocolate roast tones at FC roast levels. The body is well-suited to the cup, fairly light, but has creamy mouthfeel. There is a almond-like roast tone to the lighter levels (City, City+) and the finish is brief. It's no powerhouse flavor profile, but a classy, delicate cup with distinct soprano range of flavors. In an age of experimental pulp natural Panamas, it is fantastic to have a coffee like this, demonstrating the timeless and classic cup characteristics that made Panama a respected name!

This coffee is part of our direct trade Farm Gate pricing transparency program.

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