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Central America: El Salvador


Map of El Salvador

Unripe green coffee cherry,
Pacas cultivar, El Salvador 2004.

Current Crop Comments:
I am a believer: El Salvador has great coffee. Bourbon varietal coffees are one end of the spectrum, balanced, classic "Central" profile and also a good alternative to Brazil as a base for espresso; Pacamara varietal coffees are their opposite, quirky and full of character. High altitudes and good, dense, traditional varietals are a large part of it. We currently have La Monanita Pacamara, an outstanding cup that surprisingly did not make the national auction. I was part of the El Salvador Cup of Excellence jury in late April 2009, and the auction for those coffees is happening now. We'll see what we win! Whatever we will will arrive probably in 4 to 6 weeks - so mid-July. We will also have arrivals from Aida Batlle's Kilimanjaro estate later in the summer. Also expect Matalapa Estate and Matalapa microlots this year.


Ripe red coffee cherry in the receiving bin at the Jasal mill.

El Salvador coffee had an undeservingly poor reputation for years, marred mostly by the inability to deliver coffee of high quality in an unstable political climate. Unfortunately, agriculture is the first to suffer in revolution, since it requires years to rebuild a farm if it is neglected. In El Salvador the coffee trade, like the government in general, was controlled by a ruling elite ... a handful of wealthy families that operated many farms. El Salvador had tended towards the right politically, and the smaller coffee farmer and coffee workers fared poorly in this climate.

But the democratic movements and decades of civil war have changed many things. It shows in the quality of coffee, and the availibility of small lots from exceptional small-scale farms. Instead of low grade commercial blending coffees, we now see an eruption of farm-specific regional offerings from small co-ops or estates. El Salvador always had the right ingredients ---soil, altitude, climate ---to produce coffee on par with Guatemala. Most of all, it has the cultivars; Bourbon, the classic old-world coffee; Pacamara, the full-character, odd-ball varietal.

For the past 7 years I have been able to buy incredible Salvadors --drop dead quality, great acidity, refinement and depth. Last year it was the incredible Organic Los Naranjos. Then we had the Santa Ritas and Salaverrias. Good stuff. Then the real bombshell coffee: the Cup of Excellence lot from the San Francisco farm. After that, our Organic Santa Adelaida lots, and our Pacamara Cup of Excellence coffees. This truly represents the pinnacle of high grown Salvadors.

If you like, you can read about our trip there, and Tom's role as a judge in the competition. More recent information is located in my January 2006 travelogue.


Finca San Jose, Sonsonate, El Salvador

Sunset over the volcanos, 2006

Ripe coffee cherry on the tree at El Molino de Santa Rita farm.
City+ roast examples of Bourbon El Salvador coffees.
(click on thumbnails for larger images)



View from the mill at Santa Adelaida, an organic cooperative we buy from ...

Our Salvadoran Offerings: Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below.


 
El Salvador La Montaņita Pacamara
La Montanita is a small farm, only 17.5 Hecatares in total, planted entirely with the large-bean Pacamara cultivar. If you are not familiar with it, Pacamara is a cross between a naturally-occuring hybrid Pacas and the so-called "elephant-bean" cultivar, Maragogype (know for it's low-yield trees with huge bean size). The result is a non-traditional cup character with medium body, bright and lively acidity and unusual flavor profiles. The farm was handed down through the Aguilar family. The Aguilars run their own wet-mill so all steps of the coffee cultivation and processing are under the control of the farm (a true Estate coffee). While the farm is not organic certified, like many coffee farms it could be, the Aguilars do not use herbicides and practices manual weed control. They uss organic fertilizers like chicken manure, coffee pulp and they count on nature for insect control. La Montanita is located in the Alotepec Mountain Range and has excellent altitude for coffee (1460 meters, 4790 feet) which accounts for the slowly-maturing, dense coffee seeds and better acidity in the cup. But in the case of Pacamara, a lot of the cup character comes from this unusual cultivar. La Montaņita placed several times in the Cup of Excellence, including #2 place in 2006. We actually offered this coffee way back in '04, when we bought the CoE lot. This year we bought the coffee as a "National Winner" from the CoE because for a reason I can't figure out, it didn't make the auction. The cup is really outstanding! The dry fragrance from the grounds is unusual, with molasses syrup, aromatic wood, raisin, dried plum. Adding hot water, the wet aromatics have a lot of spice, cinnamon stick in particular, but there are also lush tropical floral notes. For a Pacamara, it has very good body and exceptional balance, a darker flavor profile than expected, with suggestions of Indonesia-like foresty flavors. Still, it has a very fine acidity, with strawberry-like brightness, and sweet rhubarb flavor in the finish.



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El Salvador La Montaņita Pacamara
$6.40$12.16$27.84$53.12$98.56
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Pacamara cultivar, a cross between Pacas and Maragogype
Country: El Salvador
Grade: SHB
Region: El Tunel, La Palma, Chalatenango
Mark: La Montanita Farm, CoE National Winner
Processing: Wet Process
Crop: November 2008 Arrival (Vac bag
Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 19-20+ Screen
Varietal: 100% Pacamara
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium-Bold / Unique flavor profile for this origin
Roast: Full City/ Full City+. See the notes above. City roast is a bit odd with this coffee, almost like green onions, so it requires just a bit more time in terms of "degree of roast". Also be aware that these large Pacamara beans will not agitate as easily in an air roaster, so reduce batch size slightly. Best to roast manually and stop at the verge of 2nd crack.
Compare to: Unusual among the El Salvador coffees, a character driven more by the cultivar (Pacamara) than the origin.
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Archived Reviews

To view reviews for out of stock coffees, visit our El Salvador Coffee Archives.


Central America: Costa Rica | Guatemala | Honduras | Mexico | Nicaragua | Panama | El Salvador
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