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Indonesia: Java


 
 
Map of Indonesia
 
The smoking vent of Kawah-Ijen
Acid lake in the crater of Kawah-Ijen

Current Crop Comments:
Java is a wet-processed Indonesian, known for super low acidity and high body. The problem is that a low acid coffee can taste quite flat, or incomplete. It's no wonder that an average quality Java is considered a "good blender" and not a true, stand-alone single origin coffee. The Government Estate coffees are quite mild, but I usually find a lot that has a bit more going on, usually a Djampit or Blawan lot. But this year we have a unique offering: a Private Estate coffee that is more rustic, more "Indonesian" in character. Hopefully we will be able continue to offer 2 contrasting Javas in late 06 (new crop) to suit the taste of the traditionalist, or those who want a more rustic, more chocolate note in the cup.
 

Java is a clean cup for an Indonesian, a fully wet-processed coffee that has the Indonesian body and thickness in the cup without earthy or dirty flavors. Our experience is that early lots of Timor and Java can be the finest while in Central Americans you usually need to hold out for the mid-crop to late-crop samples. But there are always exceptions...

In the case of Sumatra and Sulawesi, it seems that the second to third wave of arrivals can be the best. of course, these truisms are made to be broken... that's why samples and cupping are always the key. In the past we liked the Kayumas best since it exemplifies both the thick oily body of a Java with some other nice flavors ---sometimes Java is pure body and nothing else which makes it very unbalanced as a straight roast, while still an effective blender.

Sometimes one of the others, like Blawan or Djampit (also spelled Jampit) might be better, but that's why we evaluate them all against eachother in an unbiased blind cupping. There is "Government Estate" Java from the 4 old farms (Kayumas, Blawan, Djampit, Pancoer) that date back to Dutch colonialism, and "Private Estate" Java. Government Estate is invariably preferred as they higher quality coffee although there are occasional exceptions. I usually have a strong preference when I get all the Gov't. Estate samples in and blind cup them. But all in all, the cup quality at its best is nearly identical between them when they are at their best: it is not as if Blawan at its best has a remarkably different cup character than Kayumas at its best.

All main estates are located in East Java in the vicinity of the Ijen volcanic complex. The arabica coffee plant was brought to Indonesia around 1696 and has been commercially cultivated until today. The Government body (called the PTP XXVI Plantation) grows about 85% of the coffee in East Java, close to Bali on the Ijen area. The range of altitudes suitable for coffee production is 3,000 to 6,000 feet with most growing in the plateau region at 4,500. Djampit and Blawan are the largest estates, while Pancoer is 1110 Hectares and Kayumas is 725 Hectares. Blawan is huge: 2268 Hectares. THe main cultivars are a Typica that has grown in isolation long enough to display its own character, called Java Typica. But there is a lot of catimor-derived cultivars. One is ironically called USDA, named after those who developed and endorsed it, as well as Kartika cultivar.

View of Kawah Ijen from the greater Ijen caldera.

Our Javanese Offerings: (You will need to read the reference page to interpret terms and numbers used below)


Java Kajumas Curah Tatal
Country: Java Grade: 1 Region: East Java, Kajumas and Curah Tatal Mark: "Blue Java"
Processing: Semi-washed Indonesia Processed Crop: October 2008 Arrival Appearance: .4 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen Varietal: Djember Typica, Catimor
Notes:Private Estate Java farms are supposed to be inferior to the 4 Government Estate plantations. They are supposedly lower-grown, not processed or prepared as well, for those who want to save a few pennies. But this is the second time I have picked a Private over the PTP (Government) estates. I was impressed with the beautiful appearance of the green (I know, "eye-cupping" is not encouraged) and later by the cup. It's a traditional Indonesia-process coffee, also called wet-hulled process ... somewhere between a wet-process and a pulp natural. The difference is that they pulp the skin off the fruit and partially dry the coffee, then they remove the seed from the parchment shell before the seed has fully dried. It results in the darker color and chaff-free, smooth appearance, and of course it influences the cup greatly. The dry fragrance has a remarkable sweetness to it, darkly toned and chocolaty. Sweetness is not something found abundantly in Java coffees. They are usually all about bitter, brooding, intense bass-note flavors ... not sweetness. This lot seems to have the best of both worlds though. The wet aromatics are baker's chocolate, clove, with a tobacco and herbal hint. There is an absence of brightness in the cup; it drops off the map of acidity (7 is the lowest positive/non-defective score I can bear to give), straight into the dark pool of body, earth and chocolate-like alkaloid bittersweetness. And by bitter I mean good coffee bitters, not dirty nasty bitterness from Grandpa's Bunnomatic that he never cleaned once in 20 years. As it cools, there are maple syrup and butterscotch sweet tones that are fleshed out. The body is very oily in texture and the tobaccoy and spice notes emerges in the aftertaste. There's a fruit flavor lurking in the background of this cup too, hard to identify but it has both papaya and melon-like (honeydew) aspects. Anyway, it's quite a lot more interesting than recent PTP Government Estate coffees, which have been increasingly clean in the process and cup flavors, which only results in a more distinct impression of the once-hidden cultivar flavor; that odd Catimor nutty taste. While I can't say this lot does not have Catimor cultivar, I hazard a guess that there is a lot of old Djember Typica in here too, based on the cup and bean form. If I had to pick a color to represent this cup flavor, it would be mahogany brown.
Intensity/Prime Attribute:Bold intensity / Viscous body, butterscotch sweetness, chocolate bittersweetness
Roast:Full City to Full City + to Vienna. Roast it to develop the maximum chocolate bitterness without making it ashy or carbony. FC+ is best, I feel. But you get nice sweetness from the FC roast, so I find little reason to go darker than that.
Compare to: A cleaner cup profile than many Sumatras, but with all the body and dark-toned cup flavors. Espresso note: a relatively light FC roast yields a fantastic S.O. epsresso! Try it!
Java Kajumas Curah Tatal $5.00 add to cart$9.50 add to cart$21.75add to cart$41.50add to cart$77.00add to cart


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