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Islands (really big ones): Australia


Map of Australia
 
Another map from the Rural Industries Board of Australia, more accurate than mine ... -Tom

Okay, it is a continent, and an island. But how do you classify Australian coffee? Well, it bears resemblance in the cup to the soft, sweet "Island Coffee" flavor profile, so I have stretched the description a bit, geographically. Coffee cultivation began in Australia in 1880 and continued through 1926, but was found to be generally unprofitable, and the quality of the coffee to be poor. It was re-established in the early 1980's in much the same areas as the original plantations on the Eastern coast in New South Wales up to Queensland.

Coffee is now farmed from Nimbin and Lismore, in New South Wales, to Cape York in far north Queensland where the large Skybury plantation is located. Skybury and the other larger plantations, near Mareeba on the Atherton Tablelands, are fully mechanized, but there are smaller farms where traditional hand cultivation is used.

When coffee cultivation was restarted in the 1980s, initial plantings were based on the local cultivar Kairi Typica and Bourbon, Arusha, Caturra and Blue Mountain imported from PNG. Yields were disappointing though, and unfortunately the farmers were putting yield above cup quality. Some newer cultivars have now been evaluated by QDPI and NSW Agriculture. The recommended cultivars for northern Queensland include Catuai Rojo, K7, SL6, Mundo Novo, Catuai Amarillo and Kieperson. For the cooler subtropical areas of northern NSW and southern Queensland, K7 and SL14 are preferred for warmer sites, and a local selection CRB is suitable for cooler locations. Hopefully, we will see small farms specialize in traditional cultivars in the near future.


Mount Warning, near Nimbin, New South Wales, Australia. Mountain Top Estate is near.

 

Current Crop Comments:
This year's Bin 478 lot is certainly more interesting in personality, with rose-hips easy to find in the fruited flavors. These are mild coffees in general, and while there is a proliferation of small farms, the exported coffees are from larger operations. Overall, I waffle on the prospects of Australian coffee that breaks any barriers in terms of cup character. Mountain top has certainly been my pick in blind cupping versus the northern coast coffees. Have we seen the potential of Aussie coffee, or is there more this origin can offer? The jury is still out. This year we had the normal wet processed lot and now this special double-sorted, screen dried pulp natural lot!

Our Australian Coffee Offerings: Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below.

 
 
 
Australia Mountain Top Farm - Bin 478
Country: Australia Grade: Fancy Region: New South Wales Mark: Mountain Top Estate
Processing: Semi-Washed Crop: September 2008 Arrival Appearance: .4 d/300gr, 17-18 screen Varietal: Mundo Novo
Notes:Mountain Top is a farm in SE Australia, about 2 hours south of Brisbane and 5 minutes west of Nimbin. This selected area is unique because of the altitude and unique volcanic red soils. The farm itself is on the slopes of the extinct volcano, Mt. Warning. The area is a lush, subtropical environment, and is unique in coffee since this is the southernmost growing area of any coffee I know. It's also unique in that this growing area is quite distant from where most Aussie coffees come from, at least the Skybury from Mareeba in the north, which is a fully mechanized farm akin to Kauai coffee. Mountain Top is also a high tech farm, borrowing ideas from Brazil for cultivar, as well as picking using harvesting equipment. Mundo Novo is the type of coffee they plant: It has a peculiar rounded form which is somewhat like Bourbon cultivar, but is a hybrid of Bourbon. Bin 478 refers to the specific micro lot. We think the quality of the Mountain Top has been greatly improved by the use of vacuum packaging; our coffee arrives in cardboard-boxed vacuum sealed bags. It's such a long voyage that this coffee undertakes to get to Oakland, California, you could really taste the transport damage in diminished cup quality in the past. With this coffee though, I have found it needs some time to equalize after removing it from vacuum packaging, and into our zip bags. We let it "breathe" for a day before re-bagging it. I am really impressed with the cup this year. Yes, it's a little funky, but it is a semi-washed coffee (meaning that some fruity mucilage has been left on the parchment of the coffee to dry, akin to Pulp Natural coffee). The cup is crisp and light-bodied at C+ roast, and more intense and rounded at FC roast. (The body increases greatly with rest). It's an odd term but very appropriate here: juicy! Our lot this year is more fruited and floral than in years past. The dry fragrance has rose hips, and red apple. This cup is very juicy and has a sharp sweetness, and is again apple-like (mallic) with resinous piney hints. My lightest roasts were the best, City roast level. The coffee has sweet apricot cup flavors, rose hips, turning to nectarine in the aftertaste. So keep this on the light roast side! Overall, the flavors exist in a compact range, and the sweet aftertaste seems to linger for an appropriate amount of time. As mentioned, we have received the coffee vacuum packed in the last 2 seasons, not in jute bags, and this has helped preserve the origin flavors.
Andrew Ford of Mountain Top farm checks out the soil
Intensity/Prime Attribute:Mild intensity / Sweet fruited cup with juicy mouthfeel
Roast:I like City roast here. Too dark and the fruited notes and rose-like floral qualities are lost.
Compare to: An island-type cup, but decidedly more fruited and floral. This coffee is part of our direct trade Farm Gate pricing transparency program. It also comes to us vacuum-packed so we are able to offer it for a longer period and have confidence in it's freshness...
Australia Mountain Top Farm - Bin 478 (farm gate) $14.70 add to cartLimit 1 pound


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