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![]() Yours truly, cupping coffee in Manizales, Colombia | As you know, Colombian coffee is highly marketed and widely available in the US. They have been largely successful at equating the name Colombian Coffee with "Good" Coffee. This is half-true. Colombian can be very balanced, with good body, brightness (acidity) and flavor. But much of it is a bit boring, and most of it that you find in Supermarket bins etc. is simply a decent clean cup with almost no aftertaste (if its fresh from the roaster, which is not likely). So, is there good Colombian coffee? Absolutely yes. It just takes work to find it. Good Colombian is rarely sold simply as Supremo or Excelso. Colombian that has more "cup character" is usually pooled from particular regions and will have the regional name identifying it. Sometimes a generic Colombian just happens to cup really nice, but that's rare, and it requires cupping each lot to find the special one. Last year was poor in general but the current Colombians are really outstanding. I wouldn't normally offer so many types but that's what happens when you "follow your nose..." A word on grading of Colombians. I am one of a growing number who finds the Colombian grading system outdated. Other Central American and South American coffees grade mostly on altitude, not bean size. Supremo and Excelso are screen sizes only, and that doesn't make sense because a larger bean does not mean better cup quality. In fact, the presence of diverse bean sizes can (but not necessarily) result in better cup quality. Since we rate everything by the cup quality and all coffees are judged "blind", bean size is largely irrelevant, and doesn't enter into how I chose the following Colombians from the 30 to 40 samples I cupped this year. |
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| A
note on Colombian selections: Coffee
from Colombia comes in all grades to suit different markets:
there are lower grades for commercial and food service applications,
generic medium grades, Specialty grades, and at highest end of
the spectrum there are specific appellations with designated
varietal and farm or micro-region. The later has only become
available in the last two years or so (before that many fine
coffees were pooled with not-so-fine lots to form large exportable
shipments). This means that the marginally Specialty grades,
pooled lots designated only by a general region like Huila, Medellin,
Antioquia, Cauca, etc. no longer represent the best of Colombian
coffee. These lots can be okay, but recent samples have showed
a tendency toward the aqua-pulp rapid milling process. The use
of non-traditional varietals like Variedad Colombian is also
a trend towards higher production detrimental to cup quality.
Our response is to carry the best Colombians we can find, traditional
varietals, farm and micro-regional lots, special selections.
I'll certainly cup the other lots too and if there's something
good we'll get it. But I think you won't see much pooled Colombians
on our list anymore (well, never say never!)... Tom
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| The
Primary Growing Regions of Colombia: These are the regions our samples come from, and from these we chose the ones we feel are best in any given season ... |
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Popayan, Cauca |
Huila, San Augustin |
Antioquia, Medellin |
Quindio, Armenia |
Santander, Bucaramanga |
Magdelena, Sierra Nevada |
Nariņo |
Our Colombian Coffee
Offerings: Please refer to our Reference
Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below.
| Colombia "Los Pijaos de Tolima" (3-Star) | |||||||
| Country: | Colombia | Grade: | Estate | Region: | Planadas, Tolima | Mark: | Las Mingas MicroLot |
| Processing: | Wet-processed | Crop: | December 2008 Arrival | Appearance: | .0 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen | Varietal: | Caturra, Typica |
| Notes:Tolima is one of my favorite coffee origins in Colombia, and the Tolima microlot offerings we evaluate through our Colombia Farm Gate program are some of my highest rated. Most of the lots are from Planadas area, a remote zone that is difficult to access. Part of the issue is that Tolima is one of the last active FARC areas where the conflict between the government and the rebels continue, and sadly is is always the land-beholden farmers who suffer. Still, we work through Apcejor Cooperative to access their fantastic coffees, and have designated our specially crafted blend as "Los Pijaos de Tolima" in tribute to the indomitable tribe that held the area before colonization. (It's also the nickname for the well-regarded Desportes Tolima soccer team). The aromatics here are sweet, clean and vibrant, which I attribute to the fact this we pay extra to have this coffee vacuum-packed at origin. It's also one of our 3-Star lots, meaning that I "built" this coffee by cupping many small individual farm lots, some as small as 40 or 50 kilos, then assembled the Los Pijaos based on cup profile. Dry fragrance has malted wheat, caramel-chocolate confectionary smells, bittering to a baker's chocolate character at FC roast. In the wet aroma, dried fruits (raisin, prune, apricot) are evident, light brown sugar, and some Concord grape juice in the dark roast. Lighter roasts of Los Pijaos have layers of fruit, nectarine and apricot turning to raisiny sweetness in the finish. It seems that as this coffee hits 2nd crack, it becomes very chocolaty (nicely so) but at the cost of the fruit aspects. (Also of note, the lightest city roast was underwhelming and oddly sharp: You need to hit the C+ to FC roast range here). The fruits are both sweet and fresh, with a well-honed bright edge, nice texture (think of the slight astringency of an apricot), and a mildly drying finish. |
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| Intensity/Prime Attribute:Mild-Medium intensity / Multiple fresh fruit flavors, with raisiny finish, chocolate in the darker roasts | |||||||
| Roast:City+ to Full City: Darker levels are good, but more straight-forward chocolaty, whereas the really, really light city roast was unpleasant. | |||||||
| Compare to: The dimension we anticipate in Tolima coffees, our favorite Colombia origin. This is part of our Farm Gate pricing transparency program. | |||||||
| Colombia "Los Pijaos de Tolima" (3-Star) (farm gate) | $6.50
| $12.35
| $28.28 | $53.95 | Limit 10 pounds |
| Colombia Huila Concurso San Pedro (2.5 Star?!?) | |||||||
| Country: | Colombia | Grade: | Estate | Region: | Guadalupe, Huila | Mark: | Guadalupe Municipal Competition Winner, Saint Peter Competit |
| Processing: | Wet-processed | Crop: | October 2008 Arrival | Appearance: | .4 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen | Varietal: | Caturra, Typica |
| Notes:Here is the first note I received about the San Pedro coffee competition: "Hector Alfonso Vargas Mayor of Guadalupe, Huila since 1/1/2008 was elected with the Support of coffee growers and promising an agenda of improvement in the social development and change to the political manners in this remote municipality in Huila. His aiming is to encourage the citizens participation (with the support of the local Church / Pastoral Social) and foster development ("Guadalupe Comunitario" and "Guadalupe Sostenible") by doing "Politics" in a different manner than what this community has seen up to now." So one of the first steps was to hold a small, local coffee "concurso," a competition, judged by national cuppers and an exporter, with the top prize being a brand new coffee pulper! The top 25 received awards and a new coffee maker, and all received a premium price for the coffee. This was in June, the product of the mid-year "mitaca" harvest and not the main crop. And the concurso was part of the general celebration for the Dia del San Pedro, hence the name. We agreed to buy the winning lot, which is a mix of the top coffees, and I wasn't quite sure if it would be good (since I wasn't one of the 3 judges). But we were promised we could reject it if it was just average, and I really WANTED it to be good, and support the event and this efforts of the Mayor and the farmers. Happily, the lot arrived and I love it. The coffee has intense-yet-subtle aromatics. In the lighter roasts, sweet raisin notes are embedded in layers of chocolate. Darker roasts have a triad of chocolate-spice-raisin, dense and somewhat pungent to the nose. There some unexpected fruits that surface in the wet aroma; a touch of baked pineapple, blackberry, and apple turnover. It has a sumptuous, darkly sweet character. The cup flavors have strong raisin and dry plum notes. There's clove-like spice accents ... but it's this creamy, thick body that gives the cup such balance in overall character. As it cools, an apple flavor is fleshed out, more specifically, spiced baked apple and apple pie. It finishes with chocolate bittersweetness. Such a balanced coffee, I immediately thought of S.O. espresso, and it is a fantastic shot, even at lighter roast levels (FC) than are possible with other coffees. 2.5 Star???: We have a new approach in Colombia, with 4 tiers of coffee: 1-Star, 2-Star, 3-Star, 4-Star. This lot doesn't quite conform, since it was a competition lot, but I did not personally go to Colombia and select it. It was also not vacuum-packed in Colombia, like our 3 star lots, but it is every bit as good. So, rather jokingly, we call it 2.5 Star. I know, that's a lot of stars to keep track of. Consider that 1-Star = fine Specialty coffee you might find at a good local roaster, 2-Star is regional specialty lots that sometimes can be remarkable (so when we offer a 2-Star, you can assume it really stood out on the cupping table). 3-Star and 4-Star are our direct trade program, Farm Gate Coffee, and involve cupping hundreds of tiny farm-distinct lots. |
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| Intensity/Prime Attribute:Medium-Bold intensity / Creamy body, fruited notes, chocolate, balance | |||||||
| Roast:City+ to Full City: FC makes a great, balanced espresso as well | |||||||
| Compare to: This Huila cups a bit out of character, perhaps like a Tolima coffee, with great balance. This coffee is part of our direct trade Farm Gate pricing transparency program. | |||||||
| Colombia Huila Concurso San Pedro (2.5 Star?!?) (farm gate) | $5.40
| $10.26
| $23.49 | $44.82 | $83.16 |
| Colombia Organic "Union de Narino" (3-Star) | |||||||
| Country: | Colombia | Grade: | Estate | Region: | La Union, Nariņo | Mark: | Las Mingas MicroLot, Organic |
| Processing: | Wet-processed | Crop: | December 2008 Arrival | Appearance: | .2 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen | Varietal: | Caturra, Typica |
| Notes:La Union is a town in Narino, in the heart of coffee country. The hills all around are heavily planted in coffee, and La Union has mills for processing the coffees. This lot is part of our direct trade Farm Gate program, where we select individual small-farm micro-lots, select the best, and build a blend based on flavor profiles. The fact we have these special lots of coffee vacuum packed rather than traditional jute bag shipping makes a big difference. The arrivals are so much fresher, and the cup character more vibrant. We call this our 3-Star level, one notch below an individual separated lot. Narino coffees are sweet and balanced, and I feel this certified Organic selection has that Narino flavor profile in abundance. The dry fragrance has a real "milk chocolate biscuit" flavor, even in the lighter roasts. It reminds me of the old chocolate wafer cookies. It also has malt smells as well, and honey sweetness. The mellow, malty chocolate theme is evidenced in the wet aromatics too; it's a very attractive cup, if not aromatically a bit simple. The cup flavors have (as you might guess) soft chocolate flavor and milky texture. There's honey flavors, and almond roast taste in the lighter roast levels, City+. The acidity is mild here, softer than other Narino coffees, giving this lot a pleasant, rounded character overall. In the finish is some slight tannic tightness that provides a good counterpoint to the mild sapid flavors. It's a good selection for those who want the sweetness of a Central with less aggressive acidity. |
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| Intensity/Prime Attribute:Mild-Medium intensity / Malty chocolate flavors and balance, mild acidity | |||||||
| Roast:City to Full City+: Uniform malty-chocolate flavors, more like milk chocolate at City plus, turning aggressive at FC+ | |||||||
| Compare to: Classic balanced Colombia character lots. Click for information on our Farm Gate pricing transparency program. | |||||||
| Colombia Organic "Union de Narino" (3-Star) (farm gate) | $6.7
| $12.73
| $29.15 | $55.61 | Limit 10 pounds |
Tom's Sample Cupping Log | Moisture Content Readings This page is authored
by Thompson Owen and Sweet Maria's Coffee, Inc. and is not to be
copied or reproduced without permission
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