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South America: Colombia


Coffee research facilities at Cenicafe in Colombia

 
 
 
 

Yours truly, cupping coffee in Manizales, Colombia
 
 

Colombia is a diverse group of coffee origins, with Northern and Southern regions staggered in the crop cycle.

Colombian coffee is highly marketed and widely available in the US. They have been largely successful at equating the name Colombian Coffee with "Good" Coffee. This is half-true. Colombian can be very balanced, with good body, brightness (acidity) and flavor. But much of it is a bit boring, and most of it that you find in Supermarket bins etc. is simply a decent clean cup with almost no aftertaste (if its fresh from the roaster, which is not likely).

So, is there good Colombian coffee? Absolutely yes. It just takes work to find it. Good Colombian is rarely sold simply as Supremo or Excelso, a name that designates the size of the beans, the screen size. Colombian coffee that has more "cup character" can be a farm specific coffee, or pooled from particular regions and will have the regional name identifying it. Sometimes a generic Colombian just happens to cup really nice, but that's rare, and it requires cupping each lot to find the special one.

In the past, Colombians were all sold based on bean size (Excelso, Supremo) unlike other Central American and South American coffees which are graded mostly on altitude. Grading by screen size doesn't make sense because a larger bean does not mean better cup quality. In fact, the presence of diverse bean sizes can (but not necessarily) result in better cup quality. Since we rate everything by the cup quality and all coffees are judged "blind", bean size is largely irrelevant, and doesn't enter into how I chose the following Colombians from the 30 to 40 samples I cup each year.

All that is changing in the specialty coffee end of the market; we have come "light years" ahead in the last 5 years, offering micro-regional selections from small-holder coffee producing groups, and abandoning the senseless size-based grading system. We now have access to many more small, farm-specific lots. Part of the current crop quality is this: we can wait for the good coffee, not just go out and buy Colombia when we need it. That's the whole way we operate anyway; we wait for the peak of the harvest. And if you cup a lot of these micro-regional lots, in particular the Tolima, the South Huilas, the Cauca coffees and Narino, there is always a point where all factors converge, and the cup becomes exemplary.

At the Coffee Federations experimental farm

 
Current Crop Comments:
We have sold out of most of our Colombian micro-lot coffees for 2009 - the only one left is a mix of micro-lots from Huila that we are calling "Platos Fuertes" - the name given to the "comida typica" or local food. This is a coffee that ought to keep light. Finally, added in late June is a coffee from Manuel Santacruz, an elegant, delicate cup which is best at a light roast. I am tasting a number of new samples for the next round of micro-lot coffees, with some good coffees on the horizon. Nothing really stellar yet, but I keep looking. For now, enjoy the "Platos Fuertes" micro-lot mix.
 

A note on Colombian selections: Coffee from Colombia comes in all grades to suit different markets: there are lower grades for commercial and food service applications, generic medium grades, Specialty grades, and at highest end of the spectrum there are specific appellations with designated varietal and farm or micro-region. The later has only become available in the last two years or so (before that many fine coffees were pooled with not-so-fine lots to form large exportable shipments). This means that the marginally Specialty grades, pooled lots designated only by a general region like Huila, Medellin, Antioquia, Cauca, etc. no longer represent the best of Colombian coffee. These lots can be okay, but recent samples have showed a tendency toward the aqua-pulp rapid milling process. The use of non-traditional varietals like Variedad Colombian is also a trend towards higher production detrimental to cup quality. Our response is to carry the best Colombians we can find, traditional varietals, farm and micro-regional lots, special selections. I'll certainly cup the other lots too and if there's something good we'll get it. But I think you won't see much pooled Colombians on our list anymore (well, never say never!)... Tom
The Primary Growing Regions of Colombia:
These are the regions our samples come from, and from these we chose the ones we feel are best in any given season ...
Popayan, Cauca
Huila, San Augustin
Antioquia, Medellin
Quindio, Armenia
Santander, Bucaramanga
Magdelena,
Sierra Nevada
Nariņo

Our Colombian Coffee Offerings: Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below. Check out the Sweet Maria's Coffee Home Roasting Forum for more conversation about home roasting this and other coffees.


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Colombia "Platos Fuertes de Huila" MicroLot Mix
This coffee is a blend of small micro-lots via an innovative program called Las Mingas. These are coffees that scored 86 or 87 points, solid coffees, but a tad below out 88 point cut-off on offering it as a distinct Colombia micro-lot. Because we cup each tiny batch separate and pay accordingly, these are part of our direct trade program, Farm Gate Coffee, for farm-distinct coffees. When a coffee is between 86 and 88, it goes into our 3-Star blend, and above 88 it becomes a farm-specific lot. This means that the farmer has been paid a premium price, and that is the case with our Platos Fuertes de Huila. Sometimes these tiny lots are less than 1 bag each, say 50 kilos or so of parchment coffee, so it's just impossible to isolate it and sell it separately. We build this Huila coffee after cupping a staggering amount of samples sent direct from Colombia via FedEx every week, tiny "NanoLots," with an overall cup profile in mind. The coffee has been shipped in vacuum-packed mylar bags, in cardboard box, to maximize the original green coffee quality (which often suffers greatly in the hot, humid ports of Colombia. The Platos Fuertes lot has a very sweet fragrance of caramel, and I get a scent of carrot cake as well! In the wet aroma there is the scent of fruit candies, cane sugar and peaches. I did a very, very light City roast where the coffee is still deeply creased and patchy on the surface, and yet the aroma from this was the best, and I liked the light roast cup too. It's a little bready (needs a bit more rest) but has a clean peach and citrus fruit blend flavor. It's a fantastically clean, transparent cup, with refined sweetness. At C+ roast the grain sweetness is gone, and what lingers is more like refined sugar, an elegant "sipping coffee." Light apricot fruit flavors persist along with a mild orange accent, and the aftertaste is brief yet effervescently light. The mouthfeel is fairly transparent; it suits the cup flavors well. It's a coffee that works fine at FC or FC+ roast, nearing 2nd crack, but at those levels it has a more common Colombia flavor. To really coax the special cup out of this coffee, try to stay light on the roast, and by appearance it might look impossibly light, undrinkabley light. But if 1st crack has concluded, or will finish up in the cooling for you Behmor people, you will be set.

This coffee is part of our direct trade Farm Gate pricing transparency program.

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Colombia "Platos Fuertes de Huila" MicroLot Mix
$5.80$11.02$25.23$48.14$89.32
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Red coffee cherry harvested in Huila, with a few yellow-ripening types as well. From my last trip ...
Country: Colombia
Grade: Combined Micro-Lots
Region: Huila Department
Mark: Las Mingas Program, Virmax
Processing: Wet-processed
Crop: Late April 2009 Arrival
Appearance: .0 d/300gr, 15-18 Screen
Varietal: 100% Caturra, Typica
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Mild intensity / A beautifully light, clean, elegant cup, sweet and lightly fruited
Roast: See the notes in the review: City to City+ is highly recommended. I don't feel this is a coffee that should get anywhere near 2nd crack.
Compare to: A mild, well-structured, elegant cup; perhaps not for those who like earth and rustic fruit notes ... but it offers a great break from those types of coffees as well.
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Archived Reviews

To view reviews for out of stock coffees, visit our Colombia Coffee Archives.


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